pH - Why you should give a pH*k

First of all let me tell you that you are not alone in being clueless about how to wash your face. Despite all the info available, no one really understands. I will admit that prior to going to beauty school I really didn't know either... I wasn't clueless, but I clearly wasn't taking care of my face properly and it was evident - breakouts; dull, dry skin; fine lines; and  hyperpigmentation (dark spots). I was using a lot of make-up to cover "my flaws" which was only making the problems worse.

Proper skin care stops and starts with your skin's pH balance. Before you can cleanse properly you NEED to know how it will be affected by the products you are using so you can make sure you are using the right stuff. Your skin is the first line of defense your body has to the pollutants, toxins, and microbes in the environment. There is a thin, protective layer of oil and secretions on the surface of your skin called the "Acid Mantle". The average pH of most people's skin is 5.5 , which is slightly on the acidic side. When this level is damaged and changed by the products we use, inflammation will occur - we will breakout, have dry skin, or exhibit worse reactions.

The pH scale goes from 1-14. Water is 7, which is right in the center and is neutral. The closer you get to 1 the more acidic, the closer you get to 14 the more alkaline. Lemons have a pH of 3 and chemical peels are 3 or less. Cleansers and bar soaps tend to have pHs of 9-10.5. Using products on either extreme end of the scale will strip away natural oils causing dryness and irritation making the skin more susceptible to acne because the proper level of acidity is needed to inhibit bacterial growth on the skin.  If your skin starts to look dry or red, if it becomes more sensitive, or if you notice an increase in breakouts, you may be using a product too strong for your skin, or you may be applying it too often. 

Skin Cleansing Steps

1.   Cleaner: The first step to properly cleansing your face is DO NOT USE BAR SOAP!!!!!!!! Look for a cleanser with a neutral pH or one on the slightly acidic side which may contain some fruit acids in it. NEVER-EVER go to bed without washing those disgusting bacterias and microbes off your face. No matter how tired you are get your ass into the bathroom and wash. Absolute worst case scenario, have a box of make-up removing wipes on your night stand and use them.  

• If you have mature or dry skin, only wash your face in the evening. You will not have created enough oil on your face by morning to need another cleansing. Just rinse your face in the morning with water and apply moisturizer.
• If you have oily skin you will need to wash both morning and evening.

2.   USE TONER! Yes, you do need to use toner. Any expert who tells you that it is unnecessary needs to have his/her expert license revoked. An alcohol-free toner or one with Witch Hazel on a cotton pad is needed to remove the remnants of the cleanser and any dirt and oils that were left behind. Toner will bring your pH level back down to the acidic range after having been exposed to the alkaline range because of the cleanser. Unless you have cystic acne, do not use an Astringent, that has way too much alcohol in it for the average adult or teenager. But here is the most important part of this step that you will not read on the bottle... after toning your face, you MUST rinse with water. The toner, if left on your face, will bring your pH level down to a too acidic of a level and also cause dryness and inflammation.

 3.   Apply Moisturizer  

• At night while you are sleeping your skin is most active at repairing itself. So this is the time to apply good night cream with active ingredients that will feed and heal your skin cells. Night creams are not designed to protect your face, they are designed to nourish your skin and deliver active healing ingredients. Using the same cream both day and night will not benefit you and may actually cause damage to your skin. 
• During the day apply a cream that is designed to protect your face from the sun and environmental pollutants. You want a product that will reinforce your acid mantle so that bacteria can't penetrate into your pores.

4.   Spot Treatment. If you have acne then go ahead and apply your pimple spot treatment on top of the moisturizer.

There you go, that's it! 3-4 simple steps and you are on your way to amazing skin. It's really just that easy.

2012 Before photo of me after I finished beauty school. Fine lines, hyperpigmentation, & skin losing elasticity.

 

After photo of me 2014. Effects of proper skin care and RF treatments. Brighter, tighter, healthier skin.